Tools / Supplies You’ll Need
- • Sod Cutter
- • Trailer to haul material off
- • Vibro Plate
- • Power Broom
Measure Your Site
Identify your square footage. The rolls of turf come 15’ long.
Square or Rectangle
To figure the area of a square or rectangle, measure the Length & Width and multiply. Length x Width = Area 12 x 24 = 288 sq.ft.
A Right Triangle has one 90º corner. To figure the area of a right triangle, multiply the two sides that contact the right angle and divide by 2 Length x Width / 2 = Area 12 x 24 = 288 ÷ 2 = 144 sq.ft.
Circle, 1/2 Circle, 1/4 Circle
To figure the area of a circle, take the radius times the ra-dius, then multiply by 3.14. Radius is a straight line from the center of a circle to the outside of the circle. (Radius x Radius) x 3.14 = Area 6 x 6 = 36 x 3.14 = 113 sq.ft. Half Circle divide by 2 6 x 6 = 36 x 3.14 = 113 / 2 = 56.5 sq.ft. Quarter Circle divide by 4 6 x 6 = 36 x 3.14 = 113 / 4 = 28.25 sq.ft.
Choose Your Turf
We carry many different styles of turf that can appeal to every need. The difference in the turf types are primarily blade height, blade shape, density, thatch, and color.
There are a few factors you should take into account when deciding what type of turf to install for your project:
- Is the area where the artificial turf is going to be installed a high traffic area which will experience heavy use regularly? For high traffic areas we recommend a shorter, more coarse blade. This will help to ensure that the turf isn’t matted as easily with frequent use. The shorter, sturdier blades will stand up better against the constant wear.
- Is the area going to be used by pets? Pets love artificial turf! They also love to do their business on turf. For areas where there will be frequent messes from dogs or other pets we always suggest a shorter blade. This makes cleaning up messes much easier. The pet waste will sit on top of a shorter blade, opposed to sinking down into and get stuck between longer ones.
- Is the turf area just for aesthetics, perhaps a front lawn that you would like your neighbors to envy? Many homeowners go with synthetic turf because they want to have a plush, green lawn all year round. If you are going for a lush, full-looking lawn we recommend a longer blade. The longer blade gives the artificial turf a fuller and an ‘almost needs to be mowed’ look.
- Is the area in full shade, full sun or a mixture of both? If the area is in full sunlight all the time it may be better to install a darker colored turf so that it isn’t too bright. Conversely, if the area is in full shade it may be better to install a brighter green, or spring colored turf. This will ensure that your turf still looks green and not too dark when it is shaded. We also offer varieties of turf that have both dark and light blades mixed together, which helps it to look more natural in any light.
We have samples available that you can take to your project as well as a list of front yards in the area that have been installed with specific turf types so you can see the difference between the turfs when installed.
- Remove existing materials including the removal of any soil, weeds, or any substance above ground. Remove 3 to 4” inches. A sod cutter is helpful and can save time and effort.
Cap any existing sprinklers that will not be used. It’s important to cap sprinklers at the pipe level as opposed to the rising—this avoids any leakage that may occur. Modify sprinklers, irrigation or drainage.
Install weed barrier
Install Base Material— the subgrade of turf is critical to ensure that you have a strong base that is compacted and can drain well. We recommend a base of a first lift/layer of 3/4” Aggregate Road Base and a second lift/ layer of 1/4” x dust (Arena Fines) .* Proper Base installation ensures the turf will have the smooth level appearance upon completion of the project.
Properly distribute and level the first lift accounting for sloping away from living areas and towards to drainage area.
When establishing the subgrade, keep in mind that a slight crown to the surface helps make the finished project looks more realistic.
*You’ll find some turf DIY instructions recommend using decomposed granite (DG) and we highly recommend against that. DG isn’t made to any type of specifications and can contain pockets of clay in DG that will prevent a solid compaction and result in depressed areas in your turf.
Prepare to compact the base. Begin by saturating the imported material with enough water so that it penetrates deep, avoid flooding. Compact the first lift with a vibro plate or hand tamper going in different directions. If using a vibro plate, ensure that you are cleaning the bottom of the place frequently to avoid grooves. You will need to be 1/2” below your desired final grade in order to hide the backing.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the second lift or 1/4” x dust (Arena Fines)
- Lay out your turf on the newly compacted surface and trim to fit the area properly. If tucking the turf edges against a border, over cut the turf by an inch to help with tucking the edge. It’s helpful to lay the turf flat for a couple of hours prior to installation.
Important: When laying out turf and you have more than one piece of turf, the turf pieces need to be laid out so all the blades are facing the same direction.
- To prevent wrinkles in your turf ensure that your turf is stretched tight prior to securing/nailing. Using a carpet kicker, start at one end and stretch turf and secure with nails at the same time.
When seaming, cut the turf in an S-shape helps hide the seams. Use seam tape, glue, and nails to secure the seams.
Secure the turf using 5” steel nails every 4” to 6” along all perimeters and both sides of seams. To prevent puckering in the turf, only drive the nails 3/4 of the way. Separate the blades of grass to avoid the blades being pulled down with the nail.
In-fill is important to help the blades stand up as well as to provide ballast or weigh down the turf. This helps to prevent wrinkles and gives the turf stability and longevity. The standard in-fill we use is 30# silica sand. 20# sand and a coated rounded sand (Durafill) are also in-fill options. Depending on the turf selected, it’s recommended to use 2 to 4 pounds of infill per square foot.
Using a drop spreader, evenly spread the in-fill over the turf. Typically you will do 6 passes at a steady pace, then power-broom. Repeat with 6 more passes and then power-broom.
Using a power broom, or a turf rake, force the in-fill into the base of the turf for settling and to help the blades stand up. You may need to go over areas that have excess in-fill to ensure excess is removed.
We’d love to see your projects…. Send us pictures!
Call with questions: 916.797.0682
Maintaining artificial turf is essential for optimum appearance, safety and longevity. A regular schedule of maintenance should include:
- Surface Cleaning
- Avoiding Abuse
Additionally, you may come across small surface weeds from organics settling in the in-fill that will require removal.
White vinegar, Odoban, or Simple Green are great options for cleaning—especially when pets are on the turf.
For high traffic areas, you can use a turf rake on any areas that start to lay down.
CONTACT US TODAY!
916-797-0682 • 4480 Yankee Hill RD,#200 • Rocklin • CA • 95677 • Mon-Fri: 7:30AM-5:00PM • Saturdays: 8AM – 12PM